Now you need two peices of box section. The size
will be dictated by the space available. You need to cut across the full
width (cut the side with the seam) and down both sides until your just
into the flat of the sides. If you stop cutting in the radius part you'll
never flatten the lugs out and will tear the steel trying.
Now cut down the middle until you get to your first cut.
Then open out the two sides and straighten and then weld the places where
your saw cuts ended, drill the spring pick-up hole and shape the two lugs.
|
|
|
Then these need to be drilled and slotted
down the sides so the box can be bolted in where the old quarter eliptic
was held. The U bolts should be ok but you'll need new bolts at the front.
|
This next bit may not be required as a lot
of rear floors have been replaced with later ones. Although if this is
the case it's still worth checking diagonal dimensions to see if everything
lines up.
|
|
| |
Next you need to drill 6 holes for the
rear shackel mounts, this is a case of measuring 2 or three times and check
diagonals from the front pick-ups. Get these wrong and your car will crab!
You'll need to make up some doubler plates and weld into the floor and
hopefully add something to take the loads back to something firm.
Some people have welded a cross member between the two
plates?
|
This all requires a lot of measuring and remeasuring
and a trial fit or two. Nothing complicated just time consuming. But it
will pay off. Check the heights all around you may need to make packers
to go between the Shackel mounts and floor or the box and floor to get
the best level and don't forget you can use different springs or lowering
blocks between the spring and axle to get the ride height you want.
If you don't take the time to get everything lined up
you may have a car that crabs.
|
|